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Discussion in 'Maples' started by emery, Mar 2, 2009.
I'm in either 6b or 7, depending on which zone map you use...
hi Gil is my first year with Akane,i read Gomero's post,and some information about this problem are write in news letter of The Maple Society, i planted Akane in total shade covered from hot wind ;up date in october ....
acer Barbinerve pics date 13 /03 /2009
acer Rubrum Candy ice (flowers)pics date 12/03/2009
Re: 2009 Maple leafout reports: Explosion
We've had 3 days in a row with temperatures reaching 21Â°C (71Â°F) with full sun and everything in the garden is 'exploding'; and the forecast is more of the same all next week!!!
Pics are: Koto hime, seedling, Little Princess and goshiki kotohime
well looks like kamagata, fairyhair, and mikawa yatsubusa will be first for me. I am using liberal definition of leaf out: broken out of buds but not yet in recognizable leaf form. Temps of 77 tomorrow may press the issue. hopefully pics soon.
My 'Fairyhair' is still tight. We are also 6b or 7a depending on the map. Others (K4) in same zone are way ahead of me. 'Higasayama' and 'Orido nishiki' and 'Katsura' in the lead here and about tie with seedlings from local palmatums that I have in pots.
its so bizarre, I have the same cultivar from the same supplier (ukigomo) planted at the same time. One is doing fantastic ,the other is a mottled mess of winter dieback and deer bites. makes it challenging to make any assumptions about one specific cultivar. I am going to make a watch list of trees whose winter dieback seems to be larger than the yearly growth. if that pattern perists for 2-3 years it may be replacement time.
Agree about assumptions. It's tricky to make any pronouncements about JM's when so many variables are in play.
I've rarely had much dieback on JM's here. This year though 'Amber Ghost' had quite a bit, 'Purple Ghost' had some too.
Climate zones seem really limited in actually describing climate, as far as I can see. They really only reflect min/max temperatures, and say nothing of the duration of the winter/summer or the duration of extremes of temps, the humidity factors, etc. Here we may get down to 6 degrees F in winter, but only for a day or two. The number of really cold days - like down in the teens - is relatively few. Yet for you there may be many more cold days during your winter. As an example, we almost never have ice on our ponds. Do you have ice that lasts where you are? My mom lived in Boston for a while and their ponds froze up all winter long.
The other consideration is latitude. I'm much farther south than you, so the sun angle here is more direct than where you are at this time of year. My days may be slightly longer than yours as well - the closer to the poles you go the more dramatic the shift in light/dark hours for the seasons.
Let's also look at other plants and how they're doing in your area as a gauge of spring progression. Are Forsythia in full bloom? They are here. Daffodils? The early varieties have already bloomed and the mid-season ones are coming out now. Do you have any Vinca minor? I use that as a ground-cover and it is covered in purple blossoms right now. It might be helpful to look at these other indicators.
All the Best!
You are correct about those differences K4. In my case it's a little warmer in the city because of the asphalt and buildings etc.
In very cold Winters the Delaware River freezes all the way over to NJ. It's over a mile wide here. A mighty river!
Even with the extended cold I don't think the official temp has dipped below 0 F more than once in the last 20 years.
I think our conditions make late frost much less of an issue. I've had leafed out trees coated with snow many times, no problems.
Happy St Irish to all
Pics from this morning...file names are descriptions.
Nice, K4. I think your comment about latitude and sun angle seems especially pertinent, too.
Today 17/3 continues very fine sunny, warm and dry weather. My second and third plants have
A. tartaricum ssp ginalla. semi-mature (~8 ft) over 3 years in ground. (group of 3, just starting)
A. pensylvaticum, seed grown young plant here since spring 07. This froze and died back to ground level last year.
Supposed to stay very warm all week then freeze Saturday...
Normandie zone 8 after cold but not overly wet winter.
acer Distylum 17 03 2009
You are totally correct, that's why the SUNSET climate zones http://www.sunset.com/garden/climate-zones/climate-zones-intro-us-map-00400000036421/ are much more accurate and more useful. It would be much better if everybody would shift from USDA to SUNSET. Too bad that, to my knowledge, they do not cover Europe.
None of my maples have leafed out yet. The closest to leafing out is my Korean maple. I added new garden diary with video of the maples' progress http://www.thegardenyears.blogspot.com/
Re: 2009 Maple leafout reports: Thursday report ;o))
The balmy, sunny, dry weather continues with daily highs above 20Â°C. It's hard to keep up so I focus on species only.
100% leaf out: A. sieboldianum, A. mandshuricum, A. tataricum ssp. ginnala , A. pseudosieboldianum ssp. takesimense, A. caudatum ssp. ukuruduense, A. tegmentosum, A.morifolium, A. pectinatum ssp. taronense. Of the 2 A. caudatifolium one (in a more sheltered position) is also 100%, the other is just starting to leaf out. The A. buergerianum (species) has not broken buds but several cultivars (including 'Nokoribi') are 100% leafed out.
It seems that the hardiest species are the first to leaf out which makes sense to me since in their natural habitat the growing season is short and they better get ready to grow as soon as the air (and soil) temperatures reach the right level.
By the way I'd also like to confirm that warm, dry weather at budbeak/leafout is the best antidote against pseudomonas: not a trace this year vs. a lot of dieback, even some losses, last year with cool, wet weather.
I found Paxi's comments on mikawa yatsubusa very interesting. Our mikawa yatsubusa has done NOTHING! No bud swell... NOTHING! While our Emperor 1 is about to leaf. I am in NW Arkansas, well south of Paxi in zone 6b/7a depending on who you believe. Our lowest temp at my location has been 3 degrees F. We live in a valley, that is consistently colder on calm nights, but just as warm as surrounding areas in the day. Makes us prone to late freezes after leaf-out. This mikawa yatsubusa last year endured such a late freeze (21F with ice fog in April), after which it recovered beautifully growing 12+ inches last summer (didn't think it was ever going to stop growing and harden in time for fall). And now it's sitting, apparently healthy with no sign of winter or any other damage or problem. To contrast we have a paperbark maple that is about to flower (breaking open a bud today), and Bermuda grass (warm season grass) sending up the first leaves about a month+ early. Strange.
Because I am subject to late freezes, I would like to respectfully request what your LATEST to leaf cultivars are as well. I have tried
Emperor 1 which it said to be later, but I have found this not to be the case locally (for me or those at the local nurseries), and it has taken a beating as a result (along with being used as a dog chew toy). I'm wondering if I would be better off giving up on any JM's except dwarf's in pots.
Thanks for your time,
Looks like Kamagata will be the first to leaf out for me (Colorado, Zone 5). It's pushing little green leaves. Nothing happening on any of my other Japanese Maples (Bloodgood, Emperor 1, Seiryu, Orangeola, Hogyoku, Sekimori, Jiro Shidare, Inaba Shidare, and Sango Kaku). These all have buds, some swelling, but nothing pushing yet. We've had temps steadily in the mid 60's F during the day and mid 30's F at night.
I've also started a spreadsheet to track this information for each tree. Super nerdy...
'Hanami nishiki' and 'Caperci Dwarf' are closing in on the others and may end up being first to fully unfold.
Anyone ever get samaras on CD?
20 March 09: A. distylum. full sun, seed grown, probably 2 years old.
This is from the same source as Alex's and also planted this fall. I think it interesting that this plant from the Netherlands leafs out only a week apart in 2 very different climates. I suspect it indicates that the provenance plays a bigger role the first year than the local climate... We'll see what happens next year!
'Orange Dream' still first to show very small leaves here
'Taylor' just beginning, but, being a younger plant, looks more susceptible to cold nights
Hi, I'm newly registered here, previously an occasional lurker, and thought I'd let you know how leafout is progressing in central England.
I have a couple of dozen cultivars in containers and normally 'Katsura' beats everything else into leaf by two weeks or so, but this year's cold weather and two weeks of snow on the ground in February have held it back some. This year 'Red Filigree Lace' has beat it, helped I think by being closer to the house. Here are some pictures taken today (21 March):
Almost neck and neck with 'Red Filigree Lace' is one of last year`s seedlings. The trunk is about two inches tall and the leafsprout is already over an inch long:
And here is 'Katsura' not too far behind:
For whoever was asking about which cultivars are last into leaf, 'Beni komachi' is normally several weeks later than everything else here, I`ll see how it gets on this year.
welcome aboard maf!
Here's a pic from today of fairy hair -only one so far along that it gives a hint of the leaf structure
I think now it is easier for me to report on maples that have not leafed out yet!!!
This leads me to the question of Arktrees that nobody has yet addressed, what are the maples that leafout the latest?.
I imagine that the question refers to the Palmatum/Amoenum/Shirasawanum/Japonicum group with their cultivars. Otherwise there are many maple species (griseum, triflorum, pentaphyllum, platanoides,...) that leafout very late and should be a safe choice where spring frosts are frequent.
Of the group above a thumb rule is that palmatum/japonicum leaf out before amoenum (including var. matsumurae)/Shirasawanum. This thumb rule applies also to their cultivars.
It seems like the Japonicums really broke out early, along with some of the known early palmatums like Katsura. Also, many of my dwarfs came out very early, like Tiny Tim, Yama hime, and Akita yatsubusa. Shirasawanums seem to be taking their time, and I have a Sieboldianum that hasn't budged at all, despite all the 70 degree F (21 degree C) weather. I will be keeping an eye out for the latest to wake up...
What a difference a few hundred km makes! In spite of the warm sunny days I still have nothing new out to report. The nights have been cold with some minor freezing occasionally. (We see frost up until around 15/4, and it's not considered totally safe until Mayday.)
For myself, I'm interested in the first, last, and all in between. That's the only way to get the total picture! ;)