Hi, For the first time in my life I am going to make a bed to plant veggies. I have clay on my lot, some top soils too. I am going to buy some sand and cow manure (steer).. Can you please tell me if I should be putting any other nutrients in my bed, I mean, manure from shops like mushroom manure or fertilizers, or is manufer from cows is enough? How much should I be putting? And, is it a good idea to put some sand for drainage? I am going to plants some cucumbers, herbs, beets, and other veggies. thanks
The only way you can tell for sure how much manure to put on is to have a proper soil analysis done. Too many people skip this most important step only to regret it later. It is worth the effort. One type of manure would be enough. Mushroom compost is not manure. You may or may not need to add other fertilizer, depending on the nutrient values in the manure. It can vary greatly depending on the source. Bagged manure generally doesn't seem to be very nutrient rich. I'm not quite sure what you are asking about the "sand for drainage". Are you asking if you should put sand below the soil? No. Are you asking if you should mix sand with the soil? I would still say no. It is much better to improve your soil with compost, such as mushroom compost if you don't have any of your own.
There is also the need to break the clay up besides the use of compost. Adding gypsum and river sand can help. and digging or using a cultivator on it. I prefer digging by turning the sods but your area may be very hard. Following is an extract from a vegetable garden preparation page General Preparation Choose a suitable site in a sunny position and free from the root competition of trees and large shrubs. Dig over the soil to fork's depth. Add plenty of compost and organic matter to improve the soil. If the soil is heavy and contains clay, add plenty of gypsum. Fork through some Seamungus pelletised seaweed based plant tonic and soil conditioner , at the rate of 100g two small handfuls /sq m. Add some slow release pelletised fertiliser, such as Rapid Raiser, also at the rate of 100g per sq m. After planting, always water your new seedlings in and be prepared to water them more frequently if we do not get rain for the first few weeks. As the weather warms up, water your vegetables regularly, but remember that it is better to give the plants a good deep soak once or twice a week rather than a little bit every day. Keep garden beds weed-free as weeds compete with your plants for space, water and nutrients. This is especially important for root vegetables (carrots and onions). Mulch with pea straw to help prevent weeds from competing with your crops http://www.buys-online.net/garden_soil_preparation.htm http://www.agric.nsw.gov.au/reader/soil-types-structure/ss1192-clay-easier-work.htm
The size of the area probably dictates the approach to the soil preparation to some degree, meaning expense and labour involved. Your soil is similar to mine. Read my method, Making a New Vegetable Garden Area . There are many pictures to clarify the written material. http://www.durgan.org/Blog/Durgan.html
Beautiful veg patch Durgan. Just a query. Would adding the wood chips make the soil sour?? Maybe it depends on type of wood. Most of the time we only get access to hardwood (eucalypt) or pine. Straw is another great mulching agent in vegetable patches. Liz
So far I have only added reasonable well composted wood chips. The choice is for decidious wood, but a bit of evergreen is acceptable. The city stores the wood chips in selected parks for public use. The pile where I pick them up is usualy steaming with composting activity. The addition of the chips to the garden is about a two inch layer, and worked it in well. Straw disappears rather quickly, and was used this year, since it was available. This Spring there is about 3 yards of chips and 3.5 yards of compost in my bins, so they will be put through the shredder, and mixed together, then applied to the garden bed and mixed with the underlying soil. No signs of nitrogen defeciency is evident due to the addition of the chips. I suspect the city compost has an excess of nitrogen judging from last years growth. Regaredless in a small garden it is a judgment call, and no great harm ensues if wrong one way or the other, but I certainly appreciate the fact that water sinks into the soil without puddling, and the heavy clay can be worked. http://www.durgan.org/Blog/Durgan.html
Durgan, I liked your website and especially your method of planting seeds with toilet paper ! and tomatoes. Why do you use Miracle Gro to put the seeds? WOuldn't they grow without it if the soil is rich (you add compost, straw and manure, right)? Is it necessary to put the additivites?
Miracle grow is probably redundant. I soak the fibre pots in a five gallon pail of water to make them soft and put some miracle grow in since it was available, and probably wont do any harm. The method is not a controlled experiment, just something that appears to work. Durgan.
